So I’ve done a mesh grille for my 2000 9⁵, but wanted to try it on my 2004 Aero. It was definitely more tricky and the cuts have to be much more precise and careful, so the cut edges don’t show and they are hidden by the chrome surrounds. Here are some pics of my results
The following is 8pack’s comments used with permission from SAABcentral.com forum thread.
Miracle! Just bought and installed the pixelfix kit. I had maybe 20% of my pixels. Installed the replacement and I have 100% of my pixels. The screen is perfect.
HOWEVER, it is not a no brainer, it takes some experimentation and patience. Here are some pointers:
1. There are 2 foam strips supplied. The instructions are not clear on how to use them. Use one of them on the display side only. Pull the rubber o ring back and put the foam strip in the groove under it. When you reassemble it be sure you pull the rubber back as you put the light bar and screen back together so it is aligned with the groove belowvand riding on top of the foam strip.
2. When aligning the strip on the display side place the scotch tape on the front of the SID to hold the ribbon in place, not the back side. Be really patient getting it aligned and adhered. IT took me several tries to get it right.
3. On the circuit board side of the assemble follow the instructions and slide one price paper under the rubber o ring. Do not use the foam in the groove, it generates too much pressure and uneven.
4. When I reassembled mine I found that where the screen assembly attached to the circuit board, there was a slight bow in the board that prevented even pressure of the o ring on the ribbon. I had to fold up a piece of paper 4 or 5 times and get it thick enough to slide between the circuit board and plastic housing as it slid back together…that put even pressure on the board and o ring and everything was perfect.
5. I had to slide it in and test it several times to get it right. It required disassembly and reassembly several times but if you are patient you will get it.
Phenomenal product. I purchase the replacement ribbon for the acc panel also but haven’t done that yet.
Let me know if you have any questions.
I thought this may be helpful knowing that there are others who are using the product and having similar results, but I’ll definitely echo 8pack’s comments by saying it is not a complete no brainer, but does take some determination and a steady hand. I had to take mine apart at least twice.
Anyone who owns an older SAAB 9-3 or 9-5 knows how annoying it can be to lose pixels on your SID (SAAB Information Display). The general reason of the problem is a ribbon cable that begins to degrade and lose contact with the circuit board and/or the LCD display.
There are a host of DIY solutions out there and I’ve tried virtually all of them. They are nearly all a shot in the dark because some will have great success and others terrible success. It all depends on the condition of this ribbon cable.
There are outfits that will repair your SID and for the love of God DO NOT use Kramer Micro Repair on eBay. Your repair will go something like this…
Him: “Got it, but it’s unrepairable, so I can sell you a good one.”
Me: “Uhhhh, OK just send me a good one.”
Him: “On it’s way that’ll be another $XXX.”
You receive it and he thinks it’s completely normal that there are like 10 pixels out and over time it will just lose more… The only reason he has ok feedback is when people receive them back it’s OK and you can’t leave feedback twice.
Maybe others can chime in, but I don’t have any other experience with other repair services.
Now getting to Pixlefix.net… Since the solution is actually replacing the ribbon cable I thought I’d give it a try! Below are some pictures I took of the whole operation. This is not for a job for the casual DIYer, but for someone with patience and determination. So the question is did I have success… as you can see from the photos the before shots were terrible (probably around 2% of the pixels working) and the after shots weren’t bad (80%) working. I actually had to go in twice. The second time I placed some rubber bands around the LCD to put more pressure on the connection. Sorry there weren’t many pics of that part I got so deep in it I forgot about taking pictures.
So 80% isn’t bad… but I think my problem is I may have damaged the ribbon cable by moving it around, so I’m going to contact pixelfix and see if I can’t get a replacement ribbon cable and give it another go. If they send me one I’ll put more detailed photos and perhaps a short video of the procedure.
UPDATE!!!!! 7/13/2011
So the 80% fix was because I messed up with the SID 1 vs SID 2 cable. Here’s my suggestion… before you order a ribbon cable pull your SID apart and compare your ribbon cable with the pics on the website. If you watch my video you’ll see I have two different SIDs, both say SID 2, but one had a SID 1 ribbon cable.
Anyway… I can’t recommend this fix enough. Pixelfix.net is GREAT! If I had to do it again it’d probably take me 15 minutes and I’d have a perfect SID. So if you want me to take care of it email me and we might be able to work something out.
I’ve been to this page many times in the past and wanted to share it. It just has a ton of useful pics and information.
Here’s the Link!
While I’m at it I’ve come across many websites and accounts that have great SAAB pictures and DIY info… here’s a few.
https://picasaweb.google.com/zbuzas/SAAB95_GyulaBacsi#
http://photo.platonoff.com/Auto/
If you are considering an upgrade from your LPT (Light Pressure Turbo) stock setup using the Garrett GT-17 turbocharger to the more powerful setup using the Mitsubishi TD-04 you may have this question. This video seeks to explain the difference between the two, but it is virtually a direct bolt up replacement.
The turbocharger of any car or truck can wear out and begin to leak oil into the exhaust/intake housings. You will know this is happening when huge plumes of white smoke begin coming out the tail pipe. Sometimes the car still runs and drives fine, but you dare not drive it because of the smoke screen that would put James Bond’s to shame. Also you shouldn’t drive it because you’re losing oil quickly.
Here’s a video from YouTube which describes what I’m talking about (Video from YouTuber SAABKyle04)…
The first thing you may be inclined to do is tow it or risk driving it to the local SAAB dealer who take a look and absolutely blow you away with a repair estimate of $1500-$2000. Even an independent shop or local mechanic will charge you out the nose. The truth is you have a few more options, even if you’re determined never to open your hood let alone turn a wrench at the very least you can source a rebuilt turbo for half the cost of a new one.
For the opportunist a failed turbo out of a base model SAAB 9-3 or 9-5 presents a rather fun opportunity. UPGRADE! The base model SAABs also designated light pressure turbo (LPT) were equipped with a Garrett GT17 turbocharger. Some have seen these turbos give them 200K miles (unlikely, but it’s happened). Others have been replacing these turbos annually due to premature failure. The upgrade comes in the form of the Aero model turbocharger the Mitsubishi TD-04. This turbo has proven not only to be more robust, but also supplies the greater pressures the Aero model comes with. The turbocharger and accompanying ECU software are virtually the only engine differences between the LPT and Aero models, so for practically the same price of a replacement Garrett you can upgrade your 9-5 or 9-3 to the Aero specs (given an ECU tune).
Is it a direct swap you may ask? The answer is virtually. The only difference are the turbo lines which have smaller sized banjo bolts on the turbo housing itself. It is therefore easiest to do the swap provided with the stock TD-04 turbo lines (turbo lines carry coolant and oil to and from the turbo).
Some may be content with knowing that they’ve repaired their car and now have a more robust turbo, but you need not stop there! A quick ECU flash will allow you to use your turbo to its fullest! There are several tuning houses for SAAB- some affordable some expensive. You can also do it yourself if you’re ambitious. All the info you need is found at www.ecuproject.com.
Feel free to comment with other thoughts/questions
If you own a T7 SAAB prior to 2004 (although even then it’s a good idea- see my older post) you should consider dropping the oil pan to inspect and clean. I do this with every SAAB that comes through my possession and recommend it to many who trust me with their SAABs. Here’s a good example of a before and after… although this is just a general picture of how meticulous I get when I put the oil pan back in. The screen on this particular car was so plugged with debris and sludge I was surprised it was running.
Well I thought I’d write a bit about a project I did awhile ago and by no means am I the first to think up such a thing, but wanted to give another example of a small detail that makes your SAAB unique. Attached are some pics of the final product, but basically I purchased some powder-coated aluminum mesh on eBay and pulled the grille apart into two pieces, installed the mesh and put it all back together… this is the result. Enjoy.
So after my wife cracked up the front end of my 04 Aero with Xenons I had to make a decision. Use some Halogens that I have and not pay a dime or find some used Xenons and pay a crazy amount of money for them.
I went with the cheap route and thought I was going to have to do some specialty wiring to make them work correctly. Well I did nothing… plugged them in and viola they work flawlessly. Low beam and high beam are perfect. Absolutely brilliant.
They do need a buff though… hope this helps someone in the future.
